Cataract Canyon

Rafters hold on tight for a wild, white-water adventure

By Ray Grass
Deseret Morning News

      MOABThe first reaction as rafters stare down the throat of the oncoming rapid in Cataract Canyon is to unconsciously tighten the grip on whatever it is they happen to have hold of. Next comes a deep breath, a glance back to make sure the person on the oars sees what they see, followed by some doubts as to whether the small rubber raft, about to be swallowed, whole, is big enough to tackle the rising corridor of giant waves.

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Keith Johnson, Deseret Morning News

The Ellis family, from Dallas, and Stacey and Arnauld Briand, from Las Vegas, ride their J-rig, piloted by river guide Kissle Kopinsky, through the rapids of Cataract Canyon. The rafters will be flown back to Moab after the trip.

      Carried along by the water and a few strokes of the oars, the boat rolls and pitches, then rises up, almost vertical, then rolls and pitches and falls again ... and again ... and again, all the way to calm water. That's when the anticipation of the next series of white-water rapids sets in.
      The uncertainty, the anxiety and the excitement modern-day river rats enjoy must be close to those feelings experienced by John Wesley Powell back in 1869 on his first trip down Cataract, except today's runners have the benefits of Powell's experiences and the flood of river runners who have followed.
      Powell had nothing to go by, only the experiences of the rapid he had just floated. He knew nothing of what lay ahead. River runners today know the river as well as they do the route back home.
      Also, Powell's boat was wooden, much smaller than today's rubber rafts, and it leaked. He made frequent stops along the Green and eventually the
Colorado for repairs and to carve new oars to replace those broken in the rapids. Today's boats are flexible, comfortable and self-bailing.
      Experience has also taught guides tricks to rigging a boat to ensure everything stays in place, the bow and stern are clear for passengers and the oarsman has unrestricted movement to maneuver the boat, all intended to handle Cataract's boiling rapids.
      Powell would write that the rapids he encountered in Cataract were the most difficult he'd faced.

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Keith Johnson, Deseret Morning News

A group of rafters prepares to launch their boats after camping along the Colorado River during their Cataract Canyon river trip. Vacationers can choose the length of the trip, from one to five days. Short trips are engine-powered; long ones use oars.

      He wrote: "On starting, we came at once to difficult rapids and falls, that in many places are more abrupt than in any of the canyons through which we have passed, and we decided to name this Cataract Canyon."
      It is well known that the rapids in
Cataract Canyon can be as powerful and difficult as those in the Grand Canyon, which is considered the grandest of all white-waterrafting trips. There simply aren't as many rapids as on the Grand.
      One thing that has made Cataract the preferred river trip is time.
      The 120 miles of water from Potash through
Cataract Canyon and out at Hite can be floated in from one to five days. To make it through the Grand Canyon on a motor-powered J-rig takes between seven and nine days, and up to three weeks to row the 300-plus miles.
      It is this shorter trip, the huge rapids and the natural beauty found along the Colorado River, with sheer red-rock cliffs, stretches of green tamarisk and broken-rock escarpments connecting the cliffs with the river, that has made Cataract Canyon among the most recognized and sought-after river adventure in the world.
      "We do," said Myke Hughes, owner of Adrift Adventures, one of the more established river-running outfitters in
Moab, "we get a lot of foreign visitors who come to Moab just to run Cataract Canyon.
      "We also get people from all over the country who've heard about Cataract and want to experience the rapids. What often happens is they come and take a one- or two-day trip, then return a year or two later and book a longer trip. I would definitely put Cataract up there as being among the most recognized white-water rivers in the world. It does, it has some of the biggest runable white water in the world."
      The river trip starts near
Moab, usually at the Potash Plant southwest of town. It is here rafters get their last glimpse of civilization until takeout. There is nothing resembling modern living on the river from Potash to the suspension bridge over the Colorado River near Hite, just spectacular scenery, wildlife, flowing water and peace and quiet occasionally interrupted by the rumbling roar of the rapids.

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Keith Johnson, Deseret Morning News

A jet boat carries rafters down the Colorado River to meet their river guide, Kissle Kopinsky, and the J-rig that will carry them through the rapids of Cataract Canyon during Adrift Adventures' one-day trip.

      For the first 48 miles, the river is calm, quietly flowing around the bends and through long straights. Somewhere near the heart of Canyonlands National Park, the Green River meets the Colorado River at the confluence.
      It is at this point
Cataract Canyon begins. A sign, along the right-hand bank, warns river runners of impending rapids. From this point to the Hite takeout is roughly 47 miles.
      It took Powell five days to raft this section of Cataract. He entered it on July 23 of 1869 and wrote in his journal that after a couple of portages and a swift run in the early afternoon on July 28, they finally emerged from
Cataract Canyon.
      Today's rafters have the option of making the trip in a day or, like Powell, take the full five days.
      The one-day trip involves taking a high-speed jet boat down to the confluence, then boarding either 18-foot rafts with oarsmen for power or the slightly larger J-rigs, which are longer rubber rafts with turned-up noses and powered by a four-stroke engine. Once through the rapids, the boats then take a leisurely power trip to Hite, where passengers either take a quick flight back to
Moab by air or a longer ride by bus. Cost is $325.
      The five-day trips are all oar-powered, from Potash to Hite, with stops along the way to camp, hike and explore, much as Powell did. Cost is $850.
      The most popular is the three-day trip, which allows passengers to become emerged in the hypnotic sounds of the river and explore canyons and historic sites along its banks and spend more time watching and then riding the rapids.

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Keith Johnson, Deseret Morning News

River guide Kissle Kopinsky, right, helps Benton Ellis, center, and his son Benton Jr. into their life jackets before reboarding.

      It also gives rafters a chance to indulge in the culinary talents of the boatmen. Along with rowing, many of the boatmen have proven equally as talented in the open-air kitchen,
      There are roughly 30 major rapids of varying difficulties through Cataract, starting with Brown Betty, and ranging between 3s and 4s on a scale of 1 to 5, with five being considered unrunable.
      The most famous of these are the Big Drops 1, 2 and 3. Included in this series is a large hole created by water rushing over a large boulder and then crashing down on the opposite side creating a deep recess in the water. The hole is called "Satan's Gut," and, despite urgings on occasion from unknowing passengers to take the more exciting route, it is on the list of avoidables.
      The one-mile section of river where Big Drops are located falls roughly 30 feet, making this one of the steepest sections on the
Colorado.
      "Boatmen are well aware of this area," explained Hughes, "and other areas on the river. They pride themselves on making a good, clean run. It's a personal thing and they know the other boatmen are watching.
      "The boatmen I put on Cataract are among the most experienced. It's the same with other companies. You want your most experienced guides on this trip, not only for safety reasons, but also you want the customers to have a great time.
      "I constantly get people coming up to me after a trip on Cataract and telling me it was an experience they will never forget. Then, the next thing they want to do is take a trip through
Grand Canyon."
      There are, of course, other white-water trips available here in
Utah, but none have the reputation or the history of Cataract Canyon, which truly makes it one of the most recognized sections of river in the world.

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Keith Johnson, Deseret Morning News

An aerial view shows the Colorado River as it winds through Cataract Canyon while rafters are flown back to the Moab airport. Cataract Canyon is among the most recognized and sought-after river adventures in the world.

      For information call 435-259-8594 or visit the Web site at www.adrift.net.